Drinkability: Countering a Dash to the Extreme
MBAA TQ doi:10.1094/TQ-48-1-0224-02 |
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Michael J. Lewis. Professor emeritus of brewing
science, University of California, Davis, CA.
Abstract
Drinkability is the brewer�s mantra and holy grail: a beer should
not be satiating or filling, it should be more-ish, crisp not heavy, tasty
but not fatiguing and should leave the consumer satisfied but willing and
able to have another. The reason is simple: (a) the profit is somewhere
in the last bottle of the six-pack and (b) the sooner that is gone the
sooner it must be replaced. And therein lies something of a dilemma for
an industry that preaches moderation: drinkability is a trait that is
intended to encourage consumption. For craft brewers however, the issue is
somewhat different, because they may parse the word drinkability in a
different way from my definition. They may equate drinkability with
preference or liking or distinction or even with inventiveness, rarity,
and cutting edge uniqueness. There is therefore a trend within the
domestic and craft segments to move to the extremes, one in the lighter
direction and the other heavier. While heavier beers are fascinating
avenues of brewing arts and science to explore, there is some danger of
leaving the consumer far behind. The astonishing success of lime flavored
light beers does nothing to convince me that the American consumer in
general is starved of Russian Imperial Stouts, for example, and is
clamoring for them, interesting though such beers are. The micro-craft
brewing segment of the industry, as well as the macro-domestic brewers
need to think about drinkability in different ways. For both segments the
old idea of full flavor, flavor balance, distinction, character and
deliciousness might provide a clue to the future.
S�ntesis
La facilidad de beber es el mantra cervecero: una
cerveza no debe saciar ni llenar, debe ser fresco, no pesado, sabroso pero
sin fatigar, dejando al consumidor satisfecho pero dispuesto y capaz de
beber otra. La raz�n es muy sencilla: (a) la ganancia solo se alcanza con
la �ltima botella en un �six-pack� y (b) mientras m�s r�pido esta �ltima
botella desaparezca, m�s r�pido ser� reemplazada.
Esto saca a relucir un dilema para una industria que pregona la
moderaci�n: la facilidad de beber (�drinkability�) es un rasgo que
pretende estimular el consumo. Los cerveceros artesanos tienden a tener
una definici�n diferente para �drinkability�: lo asocian mas bien con
preferencia, distinci�n, o con innovaci�n, rareza y cosa �nica. Existe
entonces una tendencia de los segmentos dom�sticos y artesanales a moverse
a los extremos, uno en direcci�n a lo m�s liviano (�light�) y el otro
hacia lo m�s robusto. Si bien vale la pena que el arte y ciencia cervecera
explore los caminos fascinantes hacia cervezas m�s pesadas, existe el
peligro de dejar el consumidor frustrado. El suceso fabuloso de cervezas
�light� con sabor a lima no me termina de convencer que el consumidor
americano est� deseoso de un Stout Imperial Ruso, no importa cu�n
interesante sea esta cerveza. El segmento cervecero artesanal y los
cerveceros macro-dom�sticos necesitan pensar en �drinkability� de maneras
diferentes. Ambos segmentos podr�an repensar la idea vieja de sabor rico,
equilibrio del sabor, distinci�n, car�cter y delicia como cosas a
considerar en el futuro.
Palabras claves: cerveza artesanal, cerveza macro-dom�stico,
�drinkability�
